
It was an execution of change, this season at Chanel. While the young, hot things of Hollywood such as Jessica, Blake and Leighton, looked on from the front row, they bore witness to one of the most pivotal shifts in direction that has come for a while. Length, is what seems to be making the biggest transcendence from coquette to lady – gone are the insinuating girlish crops of recent seasons, and in their place lies a grown up elegance born of new proportions.
For the first time in a long time, skirts and thick woollen coats finished just shy of mid-calf, whilst demi-ruched boots snuck up to meet them – leaving a relatively modest flash of leg looking as sensual as exposing ones wrists in the shroud of Victoriana. On top, jackets came boxy and stunted, seemingly armour like in their sturdy cuts, yet offering at the same time the fragility of the relatively unprotected midriff to counterbalance too masculine a connotation.
Cocoon sleeves with a reverse tulip tapering to the bottom of the garment turned the voluminous trends of recent years literally on their head, whilst the progression into delicate evening dresses borrowed from the slouch of the 20’s whilst incorporating the minimalist clean lines and shift style of the 60’s.
In a spectrum of rich, dark hues, burgundy’s cajoled with inks, mochas, plums, sages and the most screaming of scarlet shot taffeta. The latter half of the collection delving into Dostoyevsky inspired eastern European folklore, a series of wispy black canvasses decorated with the most vivacious of floral insignia, whilst other dresses looked almost as if they could be made of stars as they glinted and shimmered under the bright, white lights of the catwalk. To reiterate, it was a change, from the futuristic blanche of last season, and from all other trends we have seen in recent years – Lagerfeld may always wear the same thing himself, but he certainly knows how to mix it up.